How to Decide What Caliber to use for Various Applications

Picking the right caliber seems like it should be a very straightforward proposition, but that’s simply not the case. When considering the various options available to airgunners today, starting at .177 and reaching all the way to .50 and beyond, the choices can be very confusing.  For example, some .22 caliber airguns top out at, say, 12-foot pounds. But, others can reach close to 100 foot-pounds, close to what a .22 LR firearm produces.  Needless to say, a 12 FPE .22 airgun is going to have a very different use case vs. a 100 FPE .22 airgun.  So, with this article, we will try and make things a bit easier to understand.  Let’s get started. 

Energy (FPE) is MORE important than Velocity (FPS)

The debate over energy vs. velocity continues to rage.  Manufacturers like to sell you based on velocity as it can be easily manipulated simply by changing the weight of the projectile.  Sticking with our .22 caliber scenario, if you market a .22 airgun as a 1000 FPS airgun, what does that really mean?  If that’s 1000 FPS with a Gamo Platinum PBA pellet at 9.7 grains, then you are only producing 21.54 foot pounds.  But, if you are shooting a JSB Monster 25.4 grain at 1000 FPS, then you are producing 56.41 Foot pounds.   

The 21-foot-pound .22 caliber airgun is ideal for small game, target practice, and pesting inside 35 yards. By contrast, the 56-foot-pound airgun is far more capable and able to take larger game like possums, raccoons, and woodchucks at much longer distances because it has the energy to carry the range and make a clean kill.

And the differences become more dramatic as you go up in caliber.  65 FPE .30 cal airguns sell right alongside 150 FPE .30 cal airguns.  And the distance really expands when you look at .50 cal airguns.  The Seneca Dragon Claw Gen II may get 350 FPE, whereas the Umarex Hammer can more than double that. Some models of the Airforce Texan and Hatsan Piledriver can push things even further and, in some cases, reach up to 800-foot-pounds.  

With these kinds of variations, it’s no wonder it’s such a hot topic.  So how can you, as an average airgunner, make sense of it all?

A clear purpose can deliver a clear choice.

We’d like to propose the following chart as a basic starting point, focusing on casual target shooting, field target, pesting, hunting, and competitive shooting with a minimum distance of 50 yards.

Target Shooting

1. Casual Target Shooting, field target, backyard plinking
   1. .177
   2. .22
2. Enthusiast / Competitive target and benchrest shooting
   1. .22
   2. .25
   3. .30

If energy is critical for hunting, then velocity actually carries a higher priority with target shooting.  In our informal testing, we found that a lighter, faster pellet is generally more accurate in less-than-ideal conditions (i.e., it’s windy) than heavier, slower pellets.  This was the opposite of how we thought it would play out, but to our surprise, that’s what we’ve found time and time again. 

So, with velocity in mind, consider the following regardless of caliber or pellet weight.  

1. 750 FPS for 50 yards
2. 850 FPS for 75 yards
3. 950 FPS for 100 yards

Again, these are some basic guidelines to help you pick the right caliber and the right airgun in that caliber, based on its ability to meet the recommended velocity. 

Airgun Hunting

1. Pesting, small game like rabbits, squirrels, collared doves, pest birds, etc.
   1. .177
   2. .22
2. Medium game like raccoons, possums, woodchucks, prairie dogs, etc.
   1. .22
   2. .25
   3. .30
3. Varmints like bobcats and coyotes
   1. .35
4. Large game like deer, hogs, and other legal game
   1. .45
   2. .50

In contrast to target shooting, velocity plays less of a role when hunting.  You want to put your focus on energy.  There’s the consideration of projectile flight time, but we will save that discussion for another day.  Whereas these are some basic caliber guidelines, let’s look at how to apply energy to the decision-making process for the hunting caliber suggestions.  A general rule of thumb, and one that provides a reasonable margin of error, is the 2x rule.  Whatever the weight of your target, double it and use it as your minimum muzzle energy, provided you are shooting at 50 yards or less. 

Now, let’s do the math. If you are trying to take a 17-pound raccoon, the typical weight of an adult raccoon is 15 to 40 pounds, then you’ll want to have an airgun that can reliably produce at least 34 foot-pounds at the muzzle. And the rule continues for deer, hogs, and other game as well.  It’s not “necessary,” but it’s just a good rule to go by.

Let’s Wrap It Up

In summary, if you are looking to target shoot mostly, then consider caliber and velocity.  If you are looking to hunt, then consider caliber and energy.  By using the above guide, you should be able to find several airguns that will suit your needs.  And if you need help picking the right setup for either, then just reach out and give us a call. We are always ready to help.